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night train to vienna

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"One of my recent discoveries is a stationery shop on Zülpicher Straße. The walls there are covered by shelves. Paper stars and wooden angels are suspended from the ceiling; as I stand on tiptoe to reach for a certain notebook, something whirrs near my head, and I startle somewhat. The shelves are crammed with notebooks, photo albums and journals in all shapes and sizes: there are big leather-bound ones you have to unfold like secrets, Moleskines and tiny linen booklets with fairies embroidered on them. In the back of the store, you can find racks with handmade stationery and little things like wind-up music boxes and poetry in small flasks. The shop owner is a grey-haired man who is always humming unconsciously under his breath. He also sells snowglobes with the Cologne Cathedral in them. I shake one, and, when I leave the shop moments later, it has started snowing." — from an old paper journal, January 2005

 
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